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Italian wine terroir

It could be hard to understand and appreciate the Italian winemaking heritage, without knowing the myriad of different terroirs . Let’s explore some together.



mercoledi 05 dicembre

Il restyling di Rigoloccio

Durante un evento milanese sono stati messi in degustazione alcuni vini dell’azienda maremmana che ha cambiato proprietà dal 2017


Il restyling di Rigoloccio
Si è tenuta al Westin Palace di Milano il 28 novembre la degustazione dei vini dell’azienda Rigoloccio, dal titolo “Vitigni internazionali, Dna maremmano”. La scelta produttiva, infatti, è di orientarsi verso tagli bordolesi con vitigni che vanno dal Cabernet Sauvignon al Cabernet Franc, dal Merlot allo Chardonnay.
Al general manager Eros Dal Lago il compito di raccontare la storia e le ultime novità: «Fondata nel 2002, l’azienda vinicola Rigoloccio si trova ai piedi del Monte Calvo e del borgo di Gavorrano, nel cuore delle Colline Metallifere grossetane dove già gli etruschi coltivavano la vite. In anni più recenti l’area è stata interessata da una fiorente attività estrattiva e la stessa azienda prende nome da un’antica miniera, oggi dismessa. La tenuta di estende per 23 ettari tra vigneti, sughere maestose e ulivi secolari».
L’artefice dei vini è l’enologo Fabrizio Moltard, che da 15 anni è consulenze di Rigoloccio e che, insieme all’agronomo Pierre Marie Guillaume, ha dato il via al progetto aziendale.
Dal 2017 c’è stato il cambio di guardia nella proprietà, con la volontà di rivoluzionare la produzione, dalla vigna alla cantina. Si è partiti anche con il restyling grafico delle etichette dei vini che, man mano, usciranno nei prossimi anni.
In degustazione, durante la serata, si ha avuto un assaggio di quello che verrà, con Mistral, Maremma Toscana DOC, un originalissimo Chardonnay vinificato in barrique per il 50% nuove e per l’altra metà di secondo passaggio.
Il vino di punta di Rigoloccio è Abundantia, Maremma Toscana DOC, Merlot in purezza affinato in barrique francesi per 18 mesi dai profumi intensi e dalla grandiosa struttura.
Elegantia è invece un Maremma Toscana DOC (Cabernet Sauvignon e Cabernet Franc) che ha ricevuto numerosi riconoscimenti. Invecchia in barrique per almeno 18 mesi ed è caratterizzato d equilibrio, raffinatezza olfattiva e gustativa, con sentori di ginepro, spezie e pepe. Tra i riconoscimenti targati 2018 le Tre Stelle Veronelli e i 3 tralci + 1 della Guida Ais Vitae, oltre ai 16,5/20 punti sullo Speciale Top of Toskana di Vinum.

L’azienda sta puntando moltissimo sull’export, che ora è al 20%, ma che si vorrebbe triplicare entro il 2020. I mercati di riferimento sono Europa, soprattutto Inghilterra, Usa e Giappone, con un occhio anche alla Cina.



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mercoledi 05 dicembre

"Sip Trip": parte il viaggio on the road di Jeff Porter alla scoperta del vino italiano

La nuova avventura del famoso sommelier americano Jeff Porter celebra la cultura del nostro paese in America


Jeff Porter


“Sip Trip” nasce da un’idea di Jeff Porter, direttore della sezione beverage del gruppo Bastianich e tra i piu’ influenti sommelier per il vino italiano negli Stati Uniti, in collaborazione con le due societa’ di comunicazione I.E.E.M. e Colangelo & Partners.
Letteralmente “un viaggio a sorsi”, Sip Trip sarà una
mini serie per YouTube, che fornirà agli appassionati del vino italiano d’oltreoceano un approccio ravvicinato e informale alle regioni vitivinicole e ad alcune delle migliori cantine e del nostro Paese. Nel suo viaggio, Jeff sarà accompagnato da due amici sommelier e da un giornalista della famosa testata online Vinepair dedicata a vini e liquori. Con un viaggio rigorosamente in macchina, la partenza e’ prevista a novembre, con tappe in Piemonte (Consorzio di Tutela dell’Asti D.O.C.G. e Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e vini del Monferrato, Cantina Renato Ratti, Pio Cesare e Fontanafredda), in Veneto (Masi, Zenato), in Lombardia (Ca' del Bosco), in Toscana (Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino e Castello di Monsanto), in Umbria (Falesco), nelle Marche (Ciù Ciù) e in Campania (Mastroberardino).

“L’idea alla base di Sip Trip è semplice: intraprendere un viaggio ravvicinato alla scoperta delle grandi cantine e delle regioni del vino, in compagnia di amici sommelier, degustando ottimo vino, intervistando personalità interessanti e esplorando la cultura e la storia d'Italia. Cosa potrebbe esservi di meglio?”dice Jeff. “Sarà possibile seguire il nostro viaggio sul sito web, dove caricheremo anche le ricette dei piatti che degusteremo, in modo che lo spettatore americano possa provare a replicare i piatti e volendo anche il percorso del nostro viaggio. Vogliamo portare avanti l’idea di un’integrazione tra il luogo, la gente e la storia”.

L’atmosfera di Sip Trip sarà informale e all’insegna del divertimento, senza pero’ dimenticare la finalità didattica. Jeff e il suo team racconteranno storie avvincenti, che si celano dietro ai grandi vini e a chi li produce, alle tenute prestigiose e alle regioni italiane, affascinanti nel loro contesto storico e culturale, evitando ogni tecnicismo e linguaggio settoriale.

“Gli americani amano l'Italia e il vino italiano ma solitamente non hanno accesso ai luoghi, che Jeff visiterà e alle persone che incontrerà”, spiega Marina Nedic, co-fondatrice di I.E.E.M. “Sip Trip permetterà agli spettatori di vivere le esperienze e le sensazioni dei protagonisti, che visiteranno questi splendidi luoghi ed incontreranno le più importanti e prestigiose personalità del vino italiano “.
Sip Trip si concluderà con un’ultima tappa negli Stati Uniti, un viaggio che vedrà come protagonisti Jeff ed i suoi amici sommelier intenti a degustare i grandi vini già assaggiati in Italia in compagnia di altri sommelier americani. “Col nostro lavoro vogliamo condividere il nostro amore per l'Italia e il vino italiano con un maggior numero possibile di professionisti del settore enologico e di appassionati in generale, sia tramite degustazioni che tramite il web”, aggiunge Gino Colangelo, Presidente di Colangelo & Partners. “Jeff è il perfetto padrone di casa per questo. Ha ottime conoscenze tecniche ed é in grado di comunicare con gli amanti del vino ad ogni livello”.

I primi episodi di Sip Trip verranno trasmessi nella primavera del 2019. Attualmente gli episodi previsti per la prima stagione sono dodici.



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friday 30 november

Persistently Premier Piemonte

Karen MacKenzie's wineries tour in Piemonte


Persistently Premier Piemonte

Piemonte landscape


If Piemonte is to Italy what Burgundy is to France, there is one quite remarkable difference among the people making the wine. Their humility.
Every producer - or more accurately stated, farmer and vintner - visited in the main production regions of Langhe, Roero, and Monferrato had two characteristics in common - a dedication to the preservation of indigenous varietals, and an overarching commitment to making their wines truly by hand. The farmers who grow the grapes harvest the grapes, make the wine, bottle and sell the wine. They make the beds in small agritourismo guest rooms, and prepare homemade meals for their visitors. They sit across the table from you and proudly pour you the end results of their labor.

Piemonte’s wines are world class for two reasons: the farmer’s respectful harmony with the land and the versatile characteristics of the quintessential Nebbiolo and Barbera grapes grown and supremely expressed in Piemonte. Nebbiolo is the dominant variety in five of the region’s DOCGs and multiple DOCs. Nebbiolo wines are distinguished by their strong tannins, high acidity and distinctive scent - best described as "tar-like macadam and roses". A less obvious characteristic, visible only over time, is their tendency to lose color. Within just a few years of vintage, most Nebbiolo wines begin fading from deep, violet-tinged ruby to a beautiful siena.
Barbera is the second work-horse red grape most associated with Piemonte. Thought to be native to the Monferrato hills near Asti and Alessandria, Barbera is comfortable on the slopes of the Langhe, in the heart of Barolo. Barbera’s best known DOC appellations include Barbera d’Asti, Barbera d’Alba, and Barbera del Monferrato. Once considered every day table wine among the peasant class, today’s Piemontese winemakers are extracting elegant, velvety wines with Barbera.

Elena, Giovanni, Margherita and Marcello Rava live above a pietra da cantoni, or a winery carved in stone, chiseled by Elena’s great grandparents in the Monferrato hillside village of Cella Monte. The family farms organically; Elena cooks vegetarian meals for guests who stay overnight at their room-by-room, lovingly-restored home that perfectly compliment their wonderfully-balanced portfolio of organic wines. Every bottle is touched on multiple occasions by the six hands of Elena, Giovanni, and daughter Margherita, as son Marcello is finishing his education. Aging Spumanti, made in the brut metodo classico style, are carried up a ladder by hand for remuage, partial disgorgement and labeling. They make a Grignolino “Poggeto” which is superb, complete with nuances of currants, rose, almond and cinnamon. Grignolino, once a noble indigenous grape in Monferrato, is making quite a comeback thanks to the efforts of farmers like the Ravas. Margherita believes that Grignolino will become a major Italian offering in the United States, because it’s a new experience for a new generation of wine drinkers. www.lacasaccia.biz.

Women continue to ascend the winemaking ladder in Piemonte. Among them, Mariuccia Borio, proprietress of Cascina Castlet in Costigliole d’Asti. Mariuccia inherited the winery from her father in 1970, and has invested her heart, soul and mind to create absolutely beautiful wine, exceptionally packaged. As she succeeded with the wines, she acquired all the land once owned by her family hectar by hectar. According to importer Fran Kysela of Kysela Pere et Fils, LTD in Virginia, Cascina Castlet’s producing the best of Piemonte for a modest cost. Try her Passum Barbera, appellation Barbera d’Asti, brimming with dark berry, violet and tobacco aromas. The savory, structured mouthfeel delivers black cherry with clove and cardamom accents, perky acidity and subtle tannins. www.cascinacastlet.com

Consider young Sara Vezza Saffirio, the daughter of legendary Josetta Saffirio, perhaps the earliest female pioneer in Piemonte to take the helm of the winery run by her family for five generations. Sara balances the demands of raising four children under the age of five while running Azienda Agricola Josetta Saffirio in Barolo’s Monforte d’Alba.
Sara oversees the operation of the winery, and is very much in the vanguard of environmental sustainability. She manages five hectars of vineyards producing classic Piemontese wines, including a lively and provocative Nebbiolo d’Alba Spumante Metodo Classico. The best value hands down will be discovered in a bottle of 2015 Barbera d’Alba Superiore for $20. If you are very lucky, you may be able to source their prized Barolo Persiera, as they produce a mere 100 magnums. This single-vineyard beauty is consistently wonderful vintage after vintage. Dark cherry, concentrated rose with graceful tannins proliferate. www.josettasaffirio.com
 
The Incisa family has been making wine in the Monferrato region of Rocchetta Tanaro for over a thousand years and are considered one of Italy’s most illustrious winemaking families. The Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta 2016 Sant’ Emiliano (Barbera d’Asti Superiore) is wondrous. Aromas of lilac, plum and clove first acquaint the nose, and dark berry, concentrated cherry, and clove are bracketed by sumptuous tannins. “Marchesi Incisa wines, produced in the Monferratto by one of Italy’s oldest winemaking families, are exceptional across the board.  Top quality at very moderate price points. Troy Kuhn, CEO of Austin, Texas-based importer Serendipity Wines, said “I’ve been importing these wines since 2006 primarily into Texas and this Spring, we hope to open up another 10 to 15 states.”
The Marchesi Incisa La Corte Chiusa Agriturismo lodging experience was superb, with winery tours, cooking classes and truffle hunting as optional activities. www.marchesiincisawines.it.

It took a few twists and turns to get to Azienda Agricola Castagnero, but the journey was ever so worth it. Proprietor, vintner and brewer Daniele Nori is exuberantly pursuing his passion for both winemaking and beer brewing, and his enthusiasm was infectious. Daniele left behind a high-flying international career in aerospace to join his wife on her family’s farm. High in the hills in Agliano Terme, one of the areas most suitable for Barbera in Asti, we tasted his small production but splendidly intense Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOCG Cuntacc 2015 and the perfectly balanced perfumed Barbera d'Asti DOCG Barbisin 2016.   His vineyards are among those of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. www.vinicastagnero.it.

In the hills of Novello in the heart of Barolo’s Langhe, we met brothers Mauro and Savio Daniele, who both worked as winemakers for the large Ceretto winery before deciding to go it alone and start Le Strette in 1997. They have assembled 3.5 hectares of vineyards and produce just 20,000 bottles per vintage in a small cantina. You’d think that without substantial funding and lacking economies of scale, life would be really tough for a producer like this, but in a few years Le Strette has achieved recognition in Italy and beyond for the sheer quality of their wines.
Though Mauro and Savio have received high marks for wines such as the 2016 Barbera d’Alba Superiore (superb acidity, structure and color), they are most proud of resurrecting the indigenous Nascetta, a lovely, full-bodied white wine grape that had almost disappeared. Now, Nascetta is considered the best expression of white wine from the entire Langhe. We tasted a 2002 that still had many years ahead in the bottle. Le Strette’s Nascetta is as good as a fine Sauterne, at a substantially lower cost. www.lestrette.com

When we left the little Le Strette, Mauro demurely told us that we were now going to experience a “very different style” of winemaking. He led us down the hill from Novello to the ultra-futuristic winery L’Astemia Pentita in the Barolo, where he is the consulting winemaker. Irony is the key to interpretation of the design of L'Astemia Pentita (“The Penitent Teetotaler”), envisioned by architect Gianni Arnaudo. The building is essentially two enormous wine cases stacked on an angle, and that structure is carried forward in the wines. They reflect a young, hip winemaking style, appreciated by young, hip sippers. Open a bottle of L’Astemia Pentita’s Barolo Terlo. The wine seems more modern in style with a touch of minerality, though it’s aged three years in large oak casks with 30-35 days of maceration. www.astemiapentita.it 
 
Rocche of Castiglione Falletto is the steepest and highest area in Barolo’s Langhe, and considered by many as the most prestigious vineyard in the Barolo. There, the Monchiero family produces full-bodied Barolos with intense aromas with elegance. The tiny Rocche cru consists of eight hectares; the Monchiero’s have nurtured the best wines from just one hectare, as Vittorio Monchiero’s parents and uncle did before him. You must try their 90+ consistently-rated Rocche de Castiglione Barolo, complete with Rose petal, baked herb, with notes of balsam. That’s a masterpiece you want to age for eight to fifteen years or more. www.monchierovini.it.

Last but absolutely not least, Podere Ruggeri Corsini, nestled in a quiet valley not far from the center of Monforte d’Alba, in the southern Barolo. The estate, encompassing nine hectares, is owned by a husband-and-wife team - Loredana Addari and Nicola Argamante. Both have advanced degrees in agronomy, viticulture, and oenology. Their wines have a warmth, expressiveness and smartness to them. According to U.S. importer Roy Cloud of Vintage 59, “Podere Ruggeri Corsini make intelligent, sophisticated wines at modest price points, and that’s why we like them.“ The first wine to be imported into the United States is their wonderful “Armujan” Barbera d’Alba DOC Superiore, which retails for $28-$30. It should age beautifully for 8 to 10 years. Also try their Langhe DOC Nebbiolo, which has a full-bodied finesse. At $23-$25, it’s a steal. Finally, splurge on a must-have wine - Barolo Bussia “Corsini” DOCG. Magnificent. Lay it down for 12 to 20 years and spend every day in anticipation. www.ruggericorsini.it




karenmackenziepr.com


Karen MacKenzie

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mercoledi 21 settembre

Italian Wines in the World: il Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva doc 2013 di Masciarelli

Abbiamo degustato per voi il Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d'Abruzzo Riserva doc 2013 dell'azienda abruzzese Masciarelli Tenute Agricole.


Italian Wines in the World: il Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva doc 2013 di Masciarelli
Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva doc 2013

Vino: Bianco - Anno: 2013
Prezzo (franco cantina, senza IVA): 21,50 Euro
Produzione annua (bottiglie): 33.000
Affinamento: Barrique 12 mesi, bottiglia 12 mesi
Denominazione: DOC
Uve: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 100%


Quanti regali enologici ci ha portato nel tempo il legame affettivo e professionale tra Gianni Masciarelli e Marina Cvetic. Oggi Gianni non c’è più ma Marina in maniera straordinaria non solo ha proseguito il lavoro intrapreso nel 1991 con il suo compagno ma ormai da tempo sta facendo emergere una sua precisa personalità. Come in questa straordinaria Riserva 2013 che ci fa capire come il Trebbiano d’Abruzzo forse rappresenti il vitigno bianco italiano con le maggiori potenzialità anche in termini di longevità. Già accattivante alla vista con quel bel giallo dorato, al naso un’esplosione di eleganza con note di frutti tropicali (papaya e frutto della passione), ma anche di frutta gialla matura (pesca e albicocca), di spezie (vaniglia), di miele d’acacia. In bocca un gusto pieno, ti ritorna il miele in una tessitura acida che garantisce fragranza e una sapidità straordinaria. La sensazione netta che potremo gustarlo in evoluzione eccellente ancora per molto tempo. L’abbiamo abbinato ad una cernia ai ferri straordinaria come il vino.

MASCIARELLI TENUTE AGRICOLE

Masciarelli Tenute Agricole nasce nel 1978 dalla visione di Gianni Masciarelli di fare dei vitigni autoctoni abruzzesi dei grandi vini. Centro vitale è San Martino sulla Marrucina, in provincia di Chieti; vigneti e uliveti sono disseminati in tutte le 4 province abruzzesi. La produzione vitivinicola conta oggi 18 etichette e 5 linee di prodotti. I principi ispiratori della mission aziendale restano quelli voluti da Gianni, il cui lavoro è portato avanti con passione e determinazione dalla moglie Marina Cvetic: massima qualità, rispetto per la tipicità del territorio, produzione artigianale. Masciarelli ha inaugurato, dopo un lungo restauro conservativo, il Castello di Semivicoli, seicentesco palazzo baronale oggi relais de charme tra i vigneti, centro propulsore dell’enoturismo nella zona.


Via Gamberale, 1
66010 San Martino sulla Marrucina
Chieti
Tel. +39 0871 85241
Fax +39 0871 82333
info@masciarelli.it
www.masciarelli.it


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MARILENA BARBERA, BETWEEN NATURE AND PERRICONE

Meeting with Marilena Barbera and her passion for the wine and the native grapes of this part of Sicily: the wine blogger Fabien Lainè tells his experience in his blog Vindeling. Here we have an abstract of his interview to the wine producer


MARILENA BARBERA, BETWEEN NATURE AND PERRICONE

Marilena Barbera


She is proprietor and winemaker at Cantine Barbera. She believes in the magic of making wine in a fully sustainable way, in tune with the unique character of Sicily.
I met Marilena Barbera last year during West Sicily Wine tour organized by Elisabetta Tosi, Giampiero Nadali and Valeria CĂ rastro.
The winery is based in Menfi, Sicily.
Marilena is a person that with many others marked me. She is a passionate winemaker, with a huge respect for nature, terroir driven, she wants to keep the sense of place of the force of nature express themselves in the wine she makes. Since a few years she uses indigenous yeasts and very simple, nature listener she practice a unique winemaking style â€" All fermentations start from pied-de-cuve spontaneously fermented w/indigenous yeast, used as starter â€" When yeast is strong enough, must is pressed & used to start fermentation of grapes throughout the season.
Respect of the eco-system is key there. And she wants to keep things manageable, making a small production about 70000 bottles per year, to be able to keep quality above and expression above all.
During the visit, a very interesting tasting we had three vintages (2010-2012) of Cantine Barbera wine Microcosmo, a wine made of perricone (ca 90 %) and nerello mascalese (ca 10 %). An interesting note is that in the 2010 vintage it was used selected yeast whilst only natural yeast in 2011 and 2012.
Definitely a "haute couture" nature work with indigenous yeasts and a deep understanding of the terroir and the life system around the vineyard allows to pull the mineral, good balance, intense wine.

"My goal is to make wines that respect the fruit: sustainable means being loyal to terroir â€" organic farming, very few oenological additives, no fining, light or no filtration, low sulfites. Less is more".

(To read more about this tasting I invite you to check We found a barbera microcosmos in Menfi, Sicily from my fellow friend #winelover and wineblogger Magnus Reuterdahl)
And so I felt in love with Perricone grape.
So I decided to dig deeper, learn and understand. And interviewed Marilena:
"Grape growing has been in your family business since 1920’s, you just fell in love with it, and winemaking is your life you said. Can you tell us a bit more, always been organic viticulture?
Even if Sicily is a great place to grow vines, and really here you don’t need to use much of chemical additives neither in the vineyards nor in winemaking because of ideal climate conditions, we started as a conventional farm: in the 60’s and 70’s there was little consciousness about the damages that chemical products cause to the environment and to human life. Our goal, in those years, was producing grapes in quantity that we would sell to the village’s big cooperative winery.
Things changed throughout the years: when we started making our own wines (just for family and friends at the very beginning) we began to care very much about the quality of our grapes. We saw that reducing pesticides and most of all abandoning weed killers resulted in healthier and stronger vines, which very soon started to produce better grapes.
Once this process was initiated by my father, I went further: I personally care about my food, and tried to apply my beliefs to the way I work. We quit all conventional practices in the vineyard between 2008 and 2010, and also moved to natural winemaking at the winery. I feel these two processes cannot be separated: organic farming without natural winemaking doesn’t really mean very much. Conventional winemaking is able to deeply influence wines’ personality, dramatically reducing the imprint of terroir, which is, on the contrary, what I focus on.
You grow Inzolia Grillo Catarratto which are iconic of the Sicilian island! But you also grow Perricone. It is rare to find some, why keeping it ?
Perricone is the signature red grape in west Sicily: back in the ‘50s and ‘60s there was almost no Nero d’Avola here, because this variety is native to the eastern part of the island.
Nero d’Avola was the first Sicilian grape to be "discovered" by international wine gurus, who initially appreciated its fruitiness and full body, and also its attitude to be blended with international grapes such as Merlot, Cab or Syrah. In the ‘90s it was very common to have such blends, which foreign markets started to buy in great quantity: the more the market requested, the higher the prices for Nero d’Avola and other grapes. Producers in Sicily could make more money on Nero d’Avola than they could on Perricone, so they started to rip off old vineyards to plant Nero d’Avola and international varieties. This resulted in a disastrous situation: from over 20.000 hectares of Perricone grown in the past, only 334 hectares still survive according to last survey (2011), and going down.
Keeping it, promoting and improving the knowledge of what this grape means for my homeland is my commitment: keeping Sicilian traditional culture alive and contributing to the conservation of biodiversity is only doing my share in the protection of the heritage I have been given, which I have to pass on to future generations".

(You can read the rest of the post here: http://vindeling.com/2014/04/03/marilena-barbera-nature-perricone-part-1/)

Fabien Lainč

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News from homepage
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC Acinatico 2016 was awarded with the gold medal at Mondial des Vins extrĂŞmes 2018
tuesday 11 december

Azienda Agricola Accordini Stefano awarded at the Mondial des Vins ExtrĂŞmes wine competition

Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC Acinatico 2016 was awarded with the gold medal at Mondial des Vins extrĂŞmes 2018

Il Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC Acinatico 2016 vince la medaglia d’oro martedi 11 dicembre

L'azienda agricola Accordini Stefano premiata al Mondial des Vins extrĂŞmes 2018

Il Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC Acinatico 2016 vince la medaglia d’oro

Intervista a Maurizio Broggi, Direttore dell'Italian Wine Scholar Education Program di Wine Scholar Guild
martedi 11 dicembre

Vino italiano nel mondo: educare partendo dal principio

Intervista a Maurizio Broggi, Direttore dell'Italian Wine Scholar Education Program di Wine Scholar Guild

Noemi Mengo