Vinitaly 2025 showcased both the strengths and stagnations of Italian wine. While predictability dominated many events and conversations, a courageous minority is pushing for innovation. This editorial reflects on the sector’s reluctance to evolve and urges a generational shift to unlock untapped potential and reconnect with today’s market and society.
Vinitaly 2025 ends with mixed signals: on one side, the predictability of the Italian wine system; on the other, the courage of those attempting change. This editorial, based on firsthand insights, explores reflections and hopes for a sector full of potential yet threatened by inertia.
Vinitaly 2025 just wrapped up, but in many ways, I could have written this commentary before the event even started. And not because I’m clairvoyant, but simply because we in the wine world (myself included) have become too predictable.
Let’s be honest: raise your hand, at least among us veterans of Italian wine (and we’re many, given the sector’s aging), if you don’t already know what will be said at a wine conference, company presentation, or masterclass. We often attend knowing in advance exactly what we’ll hear.
Running from one pavilion to another at Vinitaly, more than a few producers and wine managers told me about boring dinners discussing wine in the usual tone, and conferences with no new insights. But what struck me most was the comment from one of Italy’s most renowned producers, known for building one of the country’s most visionary appellation projects.
“Fabio, I’m about to retire,” he said. “What saddens me most is not having been able to resist the flattening of Italian wine. If the next generation lacks the courage to break the rigid schemes we created, they’ll struggle to seize the many opportunities still available.”
This wasn’t the lament of a disappointed “old winemaker” but the clear-eyed analysis of someone aware that sticking to lazy, conventional choices made by the wrong, underqualified people puts Italian wine’s future at risk.
It’s not just about age, though age plays a role. In the past, Vinitaly seemed to show a wave of young energy, but this year, that wave appeared to have stopped.
Some young producers quietly admitted they’ve realized there’s little room for their voices. And some of them, swallowed by the system, become “old” long before their time.
Yet, despite everything, the health of Italian wine at Vinitaly seems reasonably solid. Just imagine how much more potential could be unlocked.
From the many interviews we conducted during the 57th edition of Vinitaly, the picture that emerged is much less grim than often portrayed.
Even the buyers—especially the American ones—didn’t describe a dramatic situation. They’re cautious but also ready to adopt new strategies.
Uncertainty on several fronts makes things harder, but this revolutionary phase is pushing some to step out of their comfort zone. Several entrepreneurs and managers told me: “This situation is finally pushing us to rethink our strategies and expand our vision.”
I don’t have data on how many of these “brave” individuals exist in Italian wine, but Wine Meridian promises to tell and amplify their stories and fresh perspectives.
A final note on Vinitaly: I hope my comments aren’t taken as criticism of VeronaFiere’s organization. Their effort is beyond question, and the results from this edition confirm it, despite a tough market.
But because Vinitaly so closely represents the essence of Italian wine, it inevitably also exposes its limitations.
I hope Vinitaly will also dare more and become less predictable—for the good of Italian wine.
Key points
- Vinitaly 2025 highlighted the sector’s predictability and resistance to change.
- Young producers feel excluded or prematurely aged by the system.
- Some industry leaders are rethinking their strategies under pressure.
- The sector risks missing opportunities if it avoids bold decisions.
- Vinitaly reflects both the strengths and the limits of Italian wine.
